From Stormy Nights to the Wisconsin Dells

It was a night we won’t soon forget. The kind of night that sneaks up on you when you least expect it, catching you off guard and leaving you with a story to tell for years. We had just left Itasca State Park, the headwaters of the mighty Mississippi, and were continuing our journey south, eager to explore our next destination. It was a Saturday, and every campground we contacted was booked solid. After hours of searching, we finally found a spot at a Harvest Host just outside Minneapolis, Minnesota on a picturesque goat farm. Little did we know that this serene setting would soon be the backdrop for one of the wildest nights of our travels. 

When we pulled into the goat farm, our host greeted us warmly and led us to a freshly mowed hayfield, far from the farm buildings. The rolling landscape was beautiful, with a patchwork of greens and yellows stretching out in every direction. I’ll admit, I was a bit concerned about the firmness of the ground, but the host assured me it was safe to drive on. We didn’t bother setting up or disconnecting from the truck, as we were merely staying overnight on our way to our next destination. After a pleasant chat with our host, we were delighted to buy a jar of homemade raspberry rhubarb jam and some fresh eggs straight from their chicken coop. After saying goodnight, we settled in for what we thought would be a peaceful night’s rest.

However, at 1:30 in the morning, our sense of peace was shattered by the blaring of the weather alert on our phones. The piercing sound jolted us awake, and we quickly grabbed our devices to see what was going on. The radar displayed colors I’d never seen before—deep reds and purples signaling an approaching storm of severe intensity. The alert warned of dangerous weather, including possible 3-inch hail and winds reaching up to 100 mph. There was no shelter nearby, we had no choice but to hunker down in our trailer and brace for the worst.

The storm that followed was terrifying. The wind howled, the trailer shook violently, and the hail pounded against the roof with deafening force. We feared the trailer might tip over or be severely damaged, but there was nothing to do but wait it out. As we sat holding hands in the dark, the storm raging around us, the reality of our situation was clear. We were in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by open fields with no protection from the elements. The thought of 3-inch hailstones crashing down on us was dreadful, and the wind was so strong that it felt like the trailer could be lifted off the ground at any moment.

After what felt like an eternity, the storm passed, leaving us shaken but grateful to still be in one piece. The adrenaline that had coursed through our veins during the storm began to ebb, and our anxiety waned. We felt a deep sense of relief as we laid back in bed, though sleep was fleeting as I wondered what damage we might find in the morning.

At sunrise, we stepped outside to assess the damage. The farm looked peaceful and serene, a stark contrast to the chaos from a few hours earlier. The air hung thick with the scent of wet hay, and my earlier concerns about the soft ground became a reality. Surprisingly, the trailer had weathered the storm without any noticeable damage. The truck, however, bore a quarter-sized dent on the hood. All things considered, we may have dodged the worst of the storm. As we tried to drive out of the field, we found ourselves slipping and sliding. It took some maneuvering and a little luck, but we eventually made it out and back on the road.

After surviving the storm, we continued on to our intended destination—the Wisconsin Dells. Nestled in the heart of Wisconsin, the Dells is famous for its spectacular water parks, sandstone cliffs, and scenic river. It has become a favorite vacation spot for families from the Midwest, and we were excited to see what all the fuss was about.

We arrived at River Bay Premier Camping Resort, a location we found through Passport America. It was only our second time using Passport America, and while the experience was mostly positive, the campground itself came with some mixed reviews.

On the plus side, the resort had a well-stocked camp store, a laundry facility, a swimming pool, and a boat ramp with a dock for fishing. I took a quick dip in the pool while waiting for our laundry, a great way to pass the time during that mundane chore. The bar and grill located next to the fishing dock was better than we expected, and its convenient location made it a favorite eating spot during our stay.

However, the campground had its downsides as well. About half of the sites were occupied by permanent trailers, many of which looked like they hadn’t been moved in years. The rest of the campsites were nearly half-submerged in water due to recent flooding. This standing water made the area a breeding ground for mosquitoes—for us, there seems to be no escaping them. 

During the week, the campground was peaceful and quiet, but by Friday, the place filled up quickly, and tents popped up between the RVs. The bar and grill turned into a lively spot with live music playing late into the night. It was clear this was a popular party spot for locals, and the atmosphere was completely different from the serene, almost empty campground we had experienced earlier in the week.

One of the first places we visited in Wisconsin Dells came highly recommended by locals and fellow travelers alike: Paul Bunyan’s Lumberjack Restaurant. This iconic eatery on State Highway 13 is known for its all-you-can-eat, family-style breakfast, served in a setting that makes you feel like you’ve stepped back in time to the days of lumberjacks and log cabins. The towering statue of Paul Bunyan is impossible to miss, and the line of people stretching out the door is a testament to its popularity.

From the moment we walked through the door, we were transported to a different era. Taking a page from Cracker Barrell Restaurants, a large giftshop with its spacious displays of souvenir and gift items greeted us as we entered. The rustic décor of the restaurant, complete with wooden log beams, displays of vintage tools, and red and white checkered tablecloths, created a warm and inviting atmosphere. The aroma of pancakes, bacon, and freshly brewed coffee filled the air, making our mouths water in anticipation. Breakfast at Paul Bunyan’s Lumberjack Restaurant was the perfect start to our day! 

Paul Bunyan’s Lumberjack Restaurant’s Gift Shop

After breakfast, we headed to one of the highlights of our trip—a boat ride with Dells Boat Tours, a company known for its guided excursions. These tours are a must-do for anyone visiting the area, providing a unique perspective on the stunning natural beauty that makes the Dells so famous.

We opted for the two-hour tour that took us along the Upper Wisconsin River through some of the most scenic sections. As the boat glided along the calm waters, our guide provided an informative and engaging commentary on the history and geology of the area. The Wisconsin River is flanked by towering sandstone cliffs that have been sculpted by wind and water over millions of years, creating a landscape that is both rugged and beautiful.

The first stop on our boat tour was Witches Gulch, a narrow, winding canyon that cuts through the cliffs. We disembarked from the boat and followed a boardwalk that led us deeper into the canyon. The walls rose high above us, their surfaces covered in lush green moss and ferns. The air was cool and damp, and the sound of trickling water softly echoed through the narrow passageway. It was easy to see why this place is called Witches Gulch—it was if we had stepped into a secret realm hidden from the mortal world. However, we were jolted back to reality when we came to the end of the boardwalk and found a busy concession and giftshop. Deep within the gulch there is still opportunity to make a buck. 

Entering Witches Gulch

Witches Gulch Concession

After exploring the gulch, we returned to the boat and continued our journey upstream. Our next stop was Stand Rock, one of the most famous landmarks in the Dells. This towering rock formation gained widespread fame when H.H. Bennett, a pioneering photographer, captured an iconic photograph here of his son mid-leap across the gap between Stand Rock and a nearby cliff.  The photo, taken in the late 1800s, was used to demonstrate Bennett’s advanced shutter technique, and it became one of the most famous images of the Dells. 

Stand Rock Pier

We witnessed a re-enactment of the famous leap, this time performed by a trained dog. The dog’s handler guided it to the edge of the rock, and with a running start, the dog made the leap across the gap. The crowd collectively gasped as the dog soared through the air, landing safely on the other side. It was a thrilling moment that highlighted the danger Bennett’s young son must have faced during the original photo shoot. It’s hard to imagine the scrutiny a father would face today for asking his child to perform such a daring feat.

Leaping Dog

After the boat tour, we took a leisurely stroll along the Riverwalk, a picturesque path that offers stunning views of the river. Along the way, we stumbled upon the River Walk Pub, where we found a table on the back deck overlooking the water. It was the perfect spot to unwind and enjoy a beverage and delicious meal while taking in the lovely scenery. 

River View From Riverwalk

The next day, we continued our exploration of the Dells and while the previous day’s boat tour on the upper river offered a serene and scenic experience, we were looking for something a bit more adventurous for our next outing. That’s why we decided to take a ride on one of the famous WWII Army Ducks on the Lower Wisconsin River. These amphibious vehicles, originally designed for use during World War II, can travel on both land and water, making for a unique and exciting experience. Today they have found a new purpose as tour vehicles in Wisconsin Dells. 

Our tour began on dry land, as the Duck rumbled through the streets of Wisconsin Dells and into a nearby forested area where we spotted deer hiding among the trees. Our driver was both informative and entertaining, pointing out interesting facts about the Dells and cracking jokes along the way. For instance, he said we need not worry about bears in the forest because they had painted a white goal line around it, and as they all know in Wisconsin, bears can’t cross a goal line.

As we bounced along the rough terrain, the anticipation began to build. We knew that the real excitement was yet to come—when the Duck would plunge directly into the Wisconsin River. Sure enough, after a few minutes of driving through the woods, we reached the riverbank. Without missing a beat, the driver shifted gears, and the Duck drove straight into the water with a splash that came over the back of the boat, letting some of the river flow along the floorboard. The transition from land to water was seamless, and before we knew it, we were cruising along the river, surrounded by the towering cliffs and lush greenery of the Dells.

Preparing to Enter the River

The amphibious nature of the Army Duck allows it to easily navigate the river. We traveled through narrow channels, past hidden coves, and around rocky outcroppings, all while enjoying the beautiful scenery. The driver continued to share stories and insights about the area, making the Duck tour both entertaining and educational, and providing that little extra excitement we were looking for.

Duck Boat Ride On the Lower Wisconsin River

Hawk’s Bill

In addition to the outdoor adventure of a boat tour, we spent time exploring the shops and galleries along Broadway Avenue, the main street in Wisconsin Dells. The eclectic mix of stores offered everything from souvenirs to unique local art. The hustle and bustle of the street was a stark contrast to the peacefulness of the river, but it was a lot of fun to see what the town had to offer. One of the first places we stepped into was the Root Beer Museum, a quirky little spot dedicated to the history and culture of root beer. Of course, I walked away with a root beer float in my hand. 

One of our most relaxing afternoons was spent at Fawn Creek Winery, a charming winery located just a short drive from town. The winery’s tranquil setting, nestled in the countryside, surrounded by rolling hills and lush greenery, made it the perfect place to unwind.

Fawn Creek Winery

Fawn Creek Winery offers a variety of wines, from crisp whites to bold reds, as well as a few unique fruit wines. We decided to try a flight, which included a selection of their most popular wines. As we sipped each one, we made notes of our favorites before selecting a bottle we both liked. We took our bottle and two glasses to the outside deck where we sat and enjoyed the sight of grapevines stretching out in neat rows with leaves rustling in the gentle breeze. 

To accompany our wine, we ordered a soft pretzel from the winery’s snack menu, expecting a typical snack-sized portion. Imagine our surprise when the server brought out a warm pretzel the size of an extra-large pizza—it was the biggest pretzel we had ever seen! Fawn Creek Winery was so peaceful that we lingered on the deck sipping wine, nibbling on the pretzel, chatting, and soaking in the tranquility of the surroundings. It was the perfect way to spend a lazy afternoon.

Wisconsin Dells is brimming with waterparks making it a top destination for families and adventure seekers alike. However, we didn’t experience any of the waterparks, but found plenty of other attractions and adventures. It’s was more than just a tourist spot—it was a place where we made some forever memories. It proved to be a destination that offered a mix of adventure and peaceful relaxation. We highly recommend adding Wisconsin Dells to your travel itinerary. 

Until next time—happy days and safe travels.