Exploring Michigan’s Lake Superior Coast

Imagine a place where rugged landscapes meet the vast expanse of a great lake, where the air feels crisp and invigorating and the skies seem bluer than anywhere else. Picture a wilderness, both timeless and enchanting, where the sights and sounds of nature join in harmony. This is where Michigan’s Upper Peninsula comes face-to-face with the majestic beauty of Lake Superior.

The Upper Peninsula, or U.P. as the locals fondly call it, stands in stark contrast to the bustling cities and flat farmlands of the Lower Peninsula. Here, a different world unfolds, where lush forests of pine and hardwood blanket rolling hills, and jagged cliffs rise dramatically from the lakeshore, offering breathtaking vistas. An overwhelming peacefulness pervades the landscape, making for a relaxing escape from the chaos of everyday life.

But it is not just the landscape that sets the U. P. apart. Separated from the Lower Peninsula by the turbulent Straits of Mackinac until the Mackinac Bridge was opened in 1957, the U.P. developed its own unique culture and history. The residents, fondly known as “Yoopers,” have a distinct way of life from their counterparts in the Lower Peninsula. They possess a heartly, resilient spirit, as many are descendants of immigrants who settled here as miners, farmers, fishermen, and lumberjacks. 

Perhaps the most refreshing aspect of the U.P. was the warmth and kindness of its people. Their genuine friendliness and helpful nature made us feel truly welcome. In a place where life moves at a more relaxed pace, people take the time to say hello and converse. I experienced this firsthand when I stopped for fuel. I went inside to pay first, but the lady behind the counter kindly smiled and said, “Sir, we are more trusting on this side of the bridge. Please pump your gas and then come in and pay.” That is exactly what I did, and it was followed by a friendly ten-minute conversation with the lady about the difference between the “Yoopers” and “Trolls.” Trolls, I discovered, is an affectionate term for those that live beneath the bridge. 

Our journey into the U.P. actually began a few days ago. We crossed the Mackinac Bridge, stopping at St. Ignace to visit Mackinac Island, then went on to DeTour Village to visit friends, squeezing in a day trip to Sault Ste. Marie. You can read all about that in a previous post. 

Moving forward, we explore the coast of Lake Superior, the world’s largest freshwater lake by surface area. We drove along scenic roads and marveled at the coastal views, taking boat rides to picturesque locations and hiking to enchanting places. Along the way, we encountered quaint small towns, each with their own unique charm. The beauty spanning in every direction, left us in awe at every turn. We spent 12 days on this leg of our journey, but I felt like we only scratched the surface of all there was to see. However, I do feel we accomplished quite a bit in that time and I took a ton of pictures. Here, I’ll share the highlights and pictures from those 12 days. 

Point Iroquois Light Station

With our travel trailer hitched to the bumper, we drove along the two-lane Whitefish Bay National Forest Scenic Byway, through a serene forest of birch, cedar and white pines, where we came upon Point Iroquois Light Station. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, it stands as a beacon marking the entry into the St. Marys River from Lake Superior. The brilliant white structure contrasted beautifully against the afternoon’s cerulean blue sky, offering stunning views of Lake Superior. 

The keeper’s house, now a museum, provided fascinating insights into the lightkeeper’s activities and the region’s nautical past. We climbed the spiral staircase to the top of the lighthouse tower, where we were rewarded with a breathtaking panoramic view. Following a boardwalk to the rocky shore of Lake Superior, Grammi filled her pockets with “pretty rocks.”  A posted sign stated rock collecting was allowed, but no more than ten pounds per person. Well…that wasn’t going to happen—we don’t have the space or the capacity to take on more weight to the camper, though Grammi seems to forget that fact.

Tahquamenon Falls State Park

Next, we headed to one of Michigan’s most iconic natural attractions, Tahquamenon Falls State Park, where we set up camp at the Rivermouth Modern campground. Featuring two waterfalls, the Lower and Upper Falls, this state park is a haven for nature lovers. Covering 50,000 acres and spanning 13 miles along the Tahquamenon River, it attracts thousands of visitors every year.

First, we visited the Lower Falls. Not deterred by the rain, we followed a trail past a visitor center and gift shop, leading us to some lookouts for a full panoramic view. The falls are a series of small, disjointed cascades split by an island. The various segments, the largest of which drops no more than ten feet, create a stair-stepped rush of whitewater that appear more like rapids than a traditional waterfall. Either way, it was an awesome sight, enhanced by the sounds of crashing water. 

Continuing along a boardwalk, we came to a dock with several rowboats. Apparently, the boats can be rented to reach the island, but it was closed during our visit. We continued further along the boardwalk, stopping at various viewpoints, until we reached a bridge crossing over to the island. It was here we experienced a more intimate setting with up-close views of the cascading falls. 

For those ready for a hike, the River Trail runs for four miles between the Upper and Lower Falls, but we were not ready for that. Instead, we opted to drive. Once parked at the busy lot, we followed a paved quarter-mile trail leading to the Upper Falls, followed by 94 steps down to the viewing platform. At 200 feet wide and 50 feet tall, the Upper Falls is among the largest waterfalls east of the Mississippi. Its root beer-colored water, topped with frothy foam, is a sight to behold. Caused by tannins leached from the cedar swamps, it looks like it could be flowing straight from the tap at A&W.  

There are some shops, a food truck, and a restaurant located at the Upper Falls. After the hike to the falls, a lunch break at the Tahquamenon Falls Brewery & Pub was in order. This cozy location was a perfect spot to try another pasty. While it did not live up to the others pasties I’ve tried, we still enjoyed the rustic ambiance.  

Whitefish Point Light Station

Whitefish Point Light Station, is the oldest active lighthouse on Lake Superior, established in 1849. It has guided countless ships through the treacherous waters of Whitefish Bay. This popular attraction includes the historic lighthouse, keeper’s quarters, the boathouse and surfboats, and the Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum. As my interest in Great Lake maritime history grows, I took pleasure in methodically exploring the museum and learning about famous shipwrecks like the Edmund Fitzgerald and others. Fascinating were the somber stories told by rescuers and survivors posted on storyboards around the museum.

MUNISING, MICHIGAN

Munising, with its proximity to the natural attractions of the area, is the home of Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. With a charming downtown, galleries, boutiques, eateries, cottages, and lovely bed & breakfast inns, it provides a great place to relax after a day of adventure.

Christmas, Michigan

For most visitors, the town of Munising is an ideal base for exploring the area. We on the other hand, found a unique alternative in the nearby town of Christmas. After visiting Santa Claus, Indiana a few weeks ago, we couldn’t resist the quirky opportunity to stay in Christmas. Silent Nights Campsites just off highway M-28, served as home base during our time in the area. This intimate campground with only four sites was perfect for us. As a bonus, the host provided a thorough written list of all the major attraction and best places to eat. One highly recommended place to eat was the Friday night fish fry at the local Moose Lodge in Munising. The fried white fish, sides and homemade desserts provided by the Women of the Moose was a real treat for a great price.

Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore

From our homebase in Christmas, we spend a few days exploring Munising and the beautiful Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, located along the shore of Lake Superior, is renowned for its stunning multicolored sandstone cliffs. The park features dramatic rock formations, waterfalls, beaches, and forests. Key attractions include Munising Falls, Sable Falls, Miners Castle, Miners Falls, Grand Marais, and Twelve Mile Beach. Our goal was to experience as much as we could.

Hiking to Munising Falls

An easy hike from the Munising Falls Visitor Center, Munising Falls is a scenic waterfall cascading over a sandstone cliff. The trail to the falls is a paved path through lush forests. This serene spot is perfect for a peaceful walk and some quiet reflection amidst nature’s splendor culminating with two viewing platforms close enough to feel the spray. 

Hiking to Sable Falls

Further along the lakeshore, the hike to Sable Falls is another must-do. This trail leads through a forested area to a beautiful, multi-tiered waterfall, tumbling 75 feet over jagged rocks. The descent involves several steps, but the effort is rewarded with the sight and sound of cascading waters in a tranquil setting. Continuing down the trail, past the waterfall, we came to a beach of sand and stone where Sable Creek flows into Lake Superior and the massive Grand Sable Banks and Dunes tower above.

Miners Castle Point

Miners Castle is the most famous rock formation within the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. It is the only cliff accessible by a short, easy hike. Two overlooks provide spectacular views of the lake and cliffs. 

Miners Falls

Miners Falls is a stunning 50-foot waterfall located near Miners Castle. With an easy half-mile hike through the forest along a well-maintained path, we came to a set of stairs leading to a wooden viewing platform. It is one of the most accessible and popular waterfalls in the area, known for its picturesque beauty and serene surroundings.

Grand Marais

Grand Marais is one off those quaint small towns I mentioned. Located on the east side of Pictured Rock National Lakeshore, it serves as a gateway into the park. A mix of old and modern, the historic village was once the location for a U.S. Life-Saving Service Station. A lovely park along the picturesque harbor provided the backdrop for a lunch spot during our visit.  

Twelve Mile Beach

Located near the center of Pictured Rock National Lakeshore, east of the cliffs, is a sand beach extending, as the name implies, 12 miles long. Grammi and I frolicked along the beach, kicking at the water and picking up rocks along the way. At times, we found the sand so soft we struggled the walk.    

PICTURED ROCKS CRUISES

The best way to see the 15 miles of vibrant cliffs, sculpted rocks, and sea caves is from the water, and in my opinion, the best way to appreciate the journey is by taking a narrated Pictured Rocks Cruise. We saw people in kayaks and small boats along the way and I’m sure that is a fantastic way for an up-close look, but for us, the less adventurous ease, comfort, and safety of a bigger vessel was the ticket. 

Following the recommendation from the Silent Nights Campsites list, we arrived early and stood in line for the first-come-first-serve seating. The recommendation was to sit on the top deck starboard side of the boat. Though, the breeze was cold up top, the recommendation was spot-on, our view of the cliffs was unobstructed.

We were amazed with a stunning panorama. The shoreline’s cliffs and formations, shaped over millions of years by wind and water, rose in a vibrant display. It didn’t take much imagination for us to see nature’s pictures in the multicolored cliffs. As if an artist took a brush, we saw faces, birds, animals, and even space invaders painted on the cliffs. The formations appeared to be chiseled by a sculpturer’s hand. This was the highlight of all the highlights in Michigan’s U.P. and a must-do for anyone visiting.

Spray Falls

Chapel Rock

Fort Wilkins State Park: 

Heading further west with our cozy camper, we set up our next campsite at Fort Wilkins State Park. Located in Copper Harbor near a well-preserved 19th-century military outpost, the campground, with 179 sites, provided a convenient location for our four-night stay.

Copper Harbor

Copper Harbor is a picturesque town offering a gateway to some of the Upper Peninsula’s most remote and beautiful areas. The drive along M-26 is itself a scenic experience. Copper Harbor, with its charming atmosphere, is more remote than the other towns we’ve come through. There are fewer shops and restaurants, and just one location to buy gasoline and diesel fuel sold at a very premium price. Our reason for coming to Copper Harbor, like most other visitors, is to embark on a boat ride to a very remote national park. Other outdoor activities include biking, kayaking, and hiking.

U.S. Highway 41

Starting at the southern terminus of U.S. Highway 41 in Miami, Florida, and traveling north for 2008 miles, you reach the northern terminus just past Copper Harbor. At the tip of the Keweenaw Peninsula, we found an unassuming cup-de,sac where a sign marks the spot for the beginning of the highway.

Hiking Hunter’s Point Park

We hiked Hunter’s Point Park Loop Trail, a 1.7-mile trail out to a point on Copper Harbor. Winding through dense forests and along rocky shorelines, it offered stunning views of Lake Superior.

Fort Wilkins

Visiting Fort Wilkins is a journey back in time. This restored 1844 military outpost offers a glimpse into the life of soldiers and their families on the frontier during the copper boom. While exploring the well-preserved buildings, we engaged with a couple of costumed interpreters, who portrayed a nurse and a soldier from the time period. They were very knowledgeable and never broke from character, though I tried to trip them up. 

The Jampot Bakery

A visit to the Jampot Bakery is a treat not to be missed. Run by monks from the nearby Holy Protection Monastery, this bakery offers an array of homemade jams, baked goods, and confections. The rustic charm of the bakery and the delicious treats made this a delightful stop. We left with a handful of homemade cookies, jam, and caramel candy. 

Delaware Mine Tour

For a taste of the region’s mining history, we visited the Delaware Mine Tour near Copper Harbor. This historic copper mine offers self-guided tours that explore the life of 19th-century miners. Dating back to 1847, the Delaware Mine is one of the oldest on the Keweenaw Peninsula. Recent excavations have revealed that mining took place here hundreds of years earlier by the Native Americans living in the region. 

Embarking on an intriguing underground adventure, we donned hard hats and descended a long staircase into a dimly lit copper mine. The tour includes a walk through the mine’s tunnels and insights into the challenging conditions faced by the miners.

Brockway Mountain Lookout

Perched on a cliff high above the town of Copper Harbor lies Broadway Mountain Overlook offering expansive scenic views of the harbor and Lake Superior.

Riding the Isle Royale Queen IV to Isle Royale

Visiting Isle Royale National Park is a unique adventure that requires some planning. Due to it remote location on an island in Lake Superior, it is one of the least visited national parks in the system. Staying overnight usually requires reservations made a year in advance. Since we’re not great at making plans that far into the future, we began monitoring the reservation website a couple of months ago, hoping for a cancellation. Finally, we were fortunate to nab two tickets for a daytrip on the Isle Royale Queen IV to Isle Royale National Park.

Understandably, a day trip is not the best way to experience Isle Royale National Park. We would have preferred an overnight stay at the lodge, but this was the best we could due under the circumstances. The boat ride across Lake Superior was 3½ hours from Copper Harbor to Rock Harbor. After a greeting and review of the rules from the park ranger, we had 2½ hours on the island before embarking on another 3½ hour ride back to Copper Harbor. This time, however, the winds had increased making for a much more turbulent crossing, causing about half of the passengers to get sick. Was the journey worth it? Well, how many people do you know who can say they’ve been to Isle Royale? I know Grammi and I can. 

Hiking Stoll Trail on Isle Royale

Once on Isle Royale, hiking the Stoll Trail came highly recommended for day visitors like us. This trail offered a mix of forest and coastal scenery, with opportunities to spot wildlife such as moose and wolves. Though, we did not encounter any wildlife, Grammi spotted a large moose track in the mud. The tranquility of the island, combined with its rugged beauty, provided a truly remarkable nature experience. We were so immersed in the surroundings that we had to hustle toward the end to make it back on the boat in time. 

Conclusion

More adventures await so it is time to move on from Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. We loved the area. With its rugged landscapes, rich history, and stunning natural beauty, it’s a traveler’s paradise. From the majestic lighthouses and haunting shipwrecks along Lake Superior’s coast to the serene waterfalls and charming towns, this region offers a diverse array of experiences. Not knowing what to expect, we came seeking a new adventure. What we discovered was an enchanting corner of the Great Lakes. A place we would love to return to someday. We are leaving Michigan’s Lake Superior coast with unforgettable memories of a magical place.

Until next time… Happy Days and safe travels.