Detour to DeTour Village

Is a detour to DeTour Village on your itinerary? According to the Oxford Dictionary, a detour is a roundabout route taken to avoid something or to visit somewhere along the way. In our case, we are taking a road less traveled to visit someone along the way. Maybe it’s not truly a detour. As I’ll explain later, we planned to visit DeTour Village from the start. However, I can imagine for most others, this out-of-the-way spot might be seen as a roundabout detour. Why else would anyone travel to this little-known spot on the far eastern edge of the Upper Peninsula of Michigan if not to visit someone?

DeTour Village is located at a crucial turning point along the shipping channel connecting St. Marys River with Lake Huron and the Straits of Mackinac. Despite its sensational sunrises and sunsets, it is not on any “best places to visit in Michigan” list. I’m sure of that because I checked Google! DeTour Village has a cultural heritage dating back to its origins as a Native American settlement and its connection to the historic fur trade. The community is deeply rooted in its maritime history. 

Today, with only a handful of local eateries and few businesses, DeTour Village embodies the quintessential small town. There is no bustling shopping district and no nightlife. It is a quiet, serene place, perfect for those seeking tranquility. Boating and fishing are the main activities here. The harbor, used by both fishing and pleasure boaters, is also a stopping point for those navigating the Great Loop. 

Over the years, DeTour Village’s population has declined. According to Michigan’s 2023 census, there are only 261 full-time residents. Nonetheless, the population swells during the summer as seasonal residents return. Among those returning for the summer are Jim and Sandra, who split their time between their homes on the St. Marys River and Florida. 

I worked with Jim for years; he was my battalion chief before moving into an administrative role. Since retiring, I would see him and Sandra during the fall and winter at our retirees’ luncheons, where he would often say, “If you’re ever up in the U.P., stop by for a visit.” Well…we finally decided to take him up on that offer.

Notwithstanding Jim and Sandra’s gracious offer to stay at their house, we chose to stay at a campground just two miles away. For reasons only an RVer understands, we’re more comfortable in our own camper with our own bed. Our site at Paradise Point RV Park, with full hookups and a great view across the St. Marys River, was perfect for our visit. Apart from the overly zealous campground owner ensuring all the dozens of camp rules were strictly followed, it was a convenient and delightful place to stay. 

Sandra invited us for dinner, so after settling in at the campground, we made our way to their place. We were greeted with smiles and hugs, feeling immediately welcome. It felt good to see a familiar face after being away from home for so long. Once inside their lovely home, we admired an envious view of the St. Marys River. While sitting on the patio deck, we watched freighter ships, nearly 1000 feet long, pass by. 

Jim explained that despite their size, the freighters are called boats, not ships. He told us how they transport a wide range of goods, including coal, taconite, limestone, grain, and other bulk products from Lake Superior through the locks at Sault Ste. Marie, through the cut, down the St. Marys River, passing by their house, enroute to ports across the Great Lakes and around the world. Jim has a scanner so he can listen in on the boats’ radio traffic. Sandra has an app on her phones to track the names and locations of the boats. Together, they find that tracking the freighters is an enjoyable pastime.

The freighters come close when they pass.

We had delightful conversations over dinner. Jim and Sandra shared their knowledge of DeTour Village, the boats, and the shipping industry. I learned terms like laker, salty, and stern-ender, and I became reacquainted with the history of the Edmund Fitzgerald and the song by Gordon Lightfoot. It was all a very fascinating subject, and I began to develop an interest. I came to understand how the people of DeTour Village love their connection to the boats that pass by.

We were having such an enjoyable time that we didn’t notice it was getting late. Did you know it is still daylight in the U.P. at 10:00 p.m.? So, we set our plans for the next morning and said goodnight. 

Jim and Sandra had a lot they wanted to show us. First, they suggested a trip to Sault Ste. Marie, about 60 miles north of DeTour Village. The French were the first Europeans to settle there in 1668, making it the oldest city in Michigan and one of the oldest in the United States. Naturally, it has a rich history. It is also the location of the famous Soo Locks—the gateway to Lake Superior. Standing on an elevated observation deck at the Soo Locks, we watched in awe as boats passed through. These locks, which can accommodate a freighter 1000 feet long, raise and lower boats by a depth of 21 feet. A visitor center and museum offer fascinating insights into the history and origins of the locks. 

S.S. Algoma Equinox Entering the Lock

For my friends back home in Florida who drive Interstate 75 almost daily, Sault Ste. Marie is the location of its northernmost terminus ending at a bridge crossing over the St. Marys River into Canada. For what it’s worth, I can now boast that I’ve seen both ends of Interstate 75, from Miami to Sault Ste. Marie. 

Lunch was at Clyde’s Drive-in, located next to the Sugar Island Ferry. Serving classic hamburgers from the same location since 1949, this place is a legendary Sault Ste. Marie staple. Talk about a blast from the past—it features carhops who come to your vehicle to take your order and then they bring your food on a tray to hang on the side window. For those, like us, that prefer not to eat in their car, there are tables for outdoor dining. It is a great spot to enjoy a burger while watching the freighters pass by. 

Clyde’s Drive-in

The next day, we met up midmorning with Jim and Sandra. They had arranged a private tour of their neighbor’s “cottage”. Just a few paces along the rocky shore from their house sits an oddity the likes of which I’ve never seen. Back in 2005, Marc and Jill VanderMeulen took the forward deckhouse of a freighter and moved it by barge to their property on the St. Marys River. The deckhouse, now perched alongside the evergreens, pays tribute to all the freighters, past and present. Seeing the stunning 1920’s deckhouse, passing boats sometime give a resounding salute. 

The freighter’s original name, John W. Boardman, is painted on the sides of the bow. In its previous life, it transported cement for the Huron Portland Cement Company. Definitely a labor of love, Marc and Jill continue working tirelessly to restore the deckhouse to its former glory and transform it into a lakeside cottage. Marc has the heart of a teacher. He loved sharing stories of past sailors and family member of those who worked on the boat. His attention to detail and knowledge of the vessel’s history came through during the tour. His expertise enriched our experience. 

As we explored the different levels, climbing narrow stairs and vertical ladders, we got a sense of the enormous endeavor Marc and Jill have tackled. We saw crew quarters designed for four and I marveled at how such a small space could accommodate them. The captain’s quarters and his office were much roomier by comparison. Inside the pilot house, we turned the helms wheel, feeling connected to the boat’s storied past. However, the highlight of the tour was the granular view from the bow. The bowsprit extended toward the waves, as if pointing the way to the next destination. We felt privileged to have Marc and Jill take time to show us their progress. We left in awe of this unique and ambitious project.   

Porthole View

After the tour, we headed to the DeTour Passage Historical Museum to continue learning about DeTour Village and the shipping lanes. Crammed into a small space, were hundreds of artifacts and documents detailing DeTour Village’s history. It is a free museum and a must-see for anyone detouring to DeTour Village.

Next, we had an early dinner at the DeTour Village Inn, a rustic and cozy venue where it seemed everyone knows your name—at least they knew Jim and Sandra’s names. We concluded the day back at Jim and Sandra’s, where we met their neighbors, Paul and Caroline. Paul offered to take us on his boat in the morning for a different kind of tour of DeTour Village, weather permitting. 

DeTour Village Inn

The next morning, we received a text that the weather was good, and the boat ride was on. We were thrilled to be on the river. We cruised past an old ship wreck to the DeTour Village Reef Lighthouse, where we were greeted by four waving ladies. We learned it was possible to spend the night at the lighthouse to capture the essence of the lightkeeper’s lifestyle. Whether these ladies were there for the lightkeeper’s experience or they were workers cleaning the lighthouse was uncertain, but it was a surprise to see anyone at all. 

We turned at the lighthouse and headed upbound. With Detour Village at the port and Drummond Island to the starboard, we admired the stunning scenery. Seeing the deckhouse cottage we toured the previous day offered a different perspective from the water. It was an amazing sight.

S.S. John W Boardman

Next, we cruised alongside the long term laid-up freighter, John Sherwin 2, allowing an up-close sense of its huge size. Some say she may sail once again, but for now, she sits without an engine or propeller.

We had a fabulous morning cruising the river. Many thanks to Paul for the boat tour and for enriching our experience. 

There is something undeniably captivating about DeTour Village. We found this little-known place with its scenic views of the St. Marys River, to have an allure we seldom experience. I would say it is definitely worth a detour to come check it out.

We are especially grateful to our friends, Jim and Sandra, for welcoming us. Their kindness and generosity touched our heart. Along our many journeys, with all the places we’ve visited, this one we’ll cherish forever. Thank you, Jim and Sandra.

Until next time…happy days and safe travels.