“New territory.” I’ve heard those words countless times. Whenever we venture onto a road we’ve never traveled, heading toward places we’ve never been, Grammi almost always declares, “New territory.” She does this, I think, to remind us both that our travel goals are to seek out new places, find new adventures and new experiences, and discover things we haven’t seen before. As we bid farewell to Michigan, watching it disappear in the rearview mirror, our eyes turned toward Wisconsin—a state we’ve never been. And, with excitement and anticipation, Grammi declared once again, “New territory.”
After several hours on the road, we arrived at Buffalo Bay Campground, part of the Legendary Waters Resort & Casino, nestled in the scenic landscape of the Bayfield Peninsula. Many casinos across the country cater to RVers, offering various options and price points. Some, like this one, have full-service campsites with hookups, while others provide a simple spot in the parking lot for dry camping. After checking in at the resort’s lobby, we proceeded to site 20.
Whenever I hear the word “resort,” I envision luxurious accommodations and deluxe amenities. Unfortunately, that was not the case here. “Too close for comfort” aptly describes this site. We were crammed between other campers on a small, unlevel grassy patch that hadn’t been mowed. To make matters worse, the swimming pool and hot tub—amenities that had influenced our decision to stay here—were unexpectedly closed. Our impression and the overall vibe did not exude a welcoming feeling.
On the plus side, the breathtaking view across the water from our site was spectacular, and most importantly, we were less than four miles from Bayfield, Wisconsin—the gateway to the Apostle Islands. Overall, while it wasn’t perfect, it was good enough for our stay as we explored the surrounding areas.
Bayfield, Wisconsin, with its charming Victorian-style buildings, quaint shops, and cozy cafes, provided the perfect setting for a leisurely stroll through its picturesque downtown. We enjoyed the day exploring the local art scene and sampling the regional cuisine. As we wandered through the weekend farmers’ market on First Street, we admired the locally grown fruits and vegetables along with unique wares of the various arts and craft vendors. Lunch at Manypenny’s Bistro was a delightful find, and we especially cherished our time sitting on a bench in a park by the shore, watching the boats come and go in the harbor.
Bayfield Civic League Memorial Park
A highly recommended activity during our visit to Bayfield was exploring the Fruit Loop. I know what you’re thinking, because I thought the same thing, but despite its name, it has nothing to do with following Toucan Sam’s nose to a bowl of fruity breakfast cereal. The Fruit Loop is a collection of farms along a scenic country road that loops around the city of Bayfield.
Known as the berry capital of Wisconsin, Bayfield has a unique climate ideal for growing berries. During the summer, visitors come from all over to pick their own strawberries, raspberries, cherries, blackberries, and blueberries. In the fall, apples are harvested and celebrated with the annual Bayfield Apple Festival. Many of the farms have their own stores and gift shops. We had a pleasant afternoon exploring this loop road, stopping at some of the charming stores and enjoying the local products.
This Farm Has A Store Inside A Barn
We stopped by the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore Visitor Center & Headquarters, located in the historic old Bayfield Courthouse Building. Built in 1884 from locally quarried brownstone, the building now houses a ranger’s information desk, gift shop and bookstore, various exhibits and artifacts, and a theater where we began our introduction and education about the Apostle Islands through an informative movie. The Apostle Islands National Lakeshore, established in 1970, helps to preserve the natural and cultural heritage of the region.
It is thought that the Apostle Islands, a group of 22 islands off the Bayfield Peninsula in Lake Superior, got their name from a Jesuit missionary, who was one of the first Europeans to explore the area in the late 17th century. The exact reason for choosing this name is not well documented. Some theories suggest that when looking out from the mainland, he counted twelve islands inspiring him to name them for the Twelve Apostles. Others say he may have just wanted to give a Christian name to the region he was exploring.
Today, the Apostle Islands are a popular destination for outdoor enthusiasts, offering opportunities for kayaking, sailing, hiking, fishing, and exploring the historic lighthouses and sea caves. They are known for their striking natural beauty, rugged coastlines, and scenic cliffs.
During our visit, we embarked on an exhilarating tour boat cruise around the Apostle Islands. Eager to explore the pristine beauty of Lake Superior’s archipelago, we were first in line to board the Superior Princess—a 65-foot cruise ship with a 165-passenger capacity operated by Apostle Island Cruises. Our tour guide welcomed us aboard for a “three-hour tour,” prompting me to quip about another infamous three-hour tour with Gilligan, which made everyone laugh. She responded with a smile, saying, “The difference between this tour and that one is we will be returning to the marina today.” I replied, “I’m counting on that.”
As we cruised away from Bayfield Pier, the sun peeked through scattered clouds, casting shimmering reflections on the water. The captain navigated the boat through the heart of the archipelago, closely passing the rugged shorelines of many of the islands. We were treated to breathtaking views of the sea caves, sculpted by centuries of wind and waves, and the iconic lighthouses standing as sentinels on the islands.
Our knowledgeable guide enriched the experience with fascinating stories of the islands’ history, from ancient Native American legends to tales of shipwrecks and early settlers. The highlight of the tour was undoubtedly the unforgettable glimpse of Devils Island. As we approached, the boat slowed to give us a closer look at the intricate formations of the sea caves, carved out by the forces of Lake Superior. The caves’ arches and chambers, with their rich hues of red and brown sandstone, were mesmerizing, echoing the sounds of waves crashing inside. The Devils Island Lighthouse, perched on the northernmost tip, enhanced the natural spectacle. Our guide shared tales of the isolated lighthouse keepers who once braved harsh weather conditions to keep the light burning.
The tranquil beauty of the Apostle Islands, combined with the engaging narration, made this cruise a truly memorable adventure, capturing the essence of the natural splendor and historical richness of this unique region.
Back on dry land, Grammi and I made our way to Hoop’s Fish Market, one of two retail fish markets in Bayfield offering fresh catches from the depths of Lake Superior. We had our hearts set on getting some smoked fish dip, but to our disappointment, they had sold out for the day. However, our spirits lifted when we discovered that they serve freshly caught fish n’ chips on the dock right behind the market. Sitting at a table on the dock, with a lovely view of the Apostle Islands in the background, we enjoyed a delightful fish n’ chips dinner. The fish was incredibly fresh, the batter perfectly crispy, and the whole experience felt uniquely Bayfield. It was the perfect way to cap off our day.
Before bidding farewell to the area, we thought we’d try our luck at the casino. The nickel slot machines provided a few hours of entertainment, even though we eventually lost our budgeted gambling allowance.
Our journey to Bayfield, Wisconsin, with its rich history, natural beauty, and unique local experiences, truly epitomized the spirit of “new territory.” Each moment, from exploring the Fruit Loop to cruising around the Apostle Islands, left us with cherished memories and a longing to return to this hidden gem on the shores of Lake Superior.
Until next time…Happy days and safe travels.
The Adventures of Grammi and Grampa 